The command module for eagle 2 is the same as that used for eagle 1.
Made by Chris Trice, it is of fibreglass construction and comes in two halves. The parts need to trimmed down, but by how much is dependant on which eagle model youíre making (see picture).
I decided to make the first eagle model.
The halves were cut down using a combination of razor saws, files and finally wet and dry paper on a flat surface.
The back of the command module needs to be cut off after the two halve are fixed together.
While it was easy to hold the parts on a flat surface before they were stuck together, I pre-cut the back, about half way through the thickness of the fibreglass.
Plastic tabs were fixed in one of the halves to help align them when gluing. The halves were then stuck together using two-part epoxy.
The back part was very carefully cut off with a razor saw and the edges sanded down. I cut a piece of styrene sheet that would replace the material lost due to the thickness of the saw and the sanding down.
The joints were re-enforced with fibreglass tissue and resin.
A plywood ring was cut and stuck in place with epoxy. Car body filler was then used to fill any gaps.
The holes for the sensor dishes (or whatever they are supposed to be) were drilled out and cleaned up using a round edge file and wet and dry paper. There were some very small chips on the edges of the side holes. I used super glue to fill these.
I had two sets of aluminium sensors, one from Chris Trice and one from Jim Small. The ones from Chris had a bigger centre circle than the ones from Jim. On the original eagle 1, the bottom dish does have a bigger centre circle than the other three. Therefore I decided to use Jimís dishes on the top and sides, and Chrisís on the bottom.
Once I was happy with the positioning I used some dabs of super glue to temporally hold the dishes. Then plenty of epoxy was used to permanently hold them in place.
The brackets that hold the beak to the framework were made from brass channel, which I got from Smiths Metals. I made templates from plastic card before cutting the brass. But it was still a bit of trail and error and a few I made were no good.
The brackets were shaped to fit the curve of the beak by using round files and a lot of patience. They were fixed in position using bolts and epoxy glue.
Two bits of thick styrene were glued together and shaped to fit flush inside the back of the beak. These and the thin sheet (to compensate for the saw thickness) were stuck in place using epoxy glue.
Next, two more sheets of styrene were stuck together and shaped to fit tight inside the plywood ring. This was then pushed in place almost flush, but just leaving it about half a millimetre proud. Super glue gel was then applied to styrene and the back of the beak was held in place for about five minutes. After the glue was toughly dry the back was pulled off. The inside of the plywood ring was rubbed with wet and dry so that the fit was not so tight.
For my first eagle I used a printout of a graphic as the only detail to the interior of the command module. This time the interior is going to be lit, so I would have to improve on this method.
A back wall was made from styrene sheet. I cut a doorframe and some strips, then used a triangular needle file to make groves to give the panelled effect. I printed the same graphic on thick photo paper and cut the door and vents out. These were stuck to the back wall using super glue. Thin styrene frames were cut and stuck over the long vents. The black bits are black styrene sheet. The back panel was painted using Halfords primer and car paints.
The pictures opposite are just some test shots with an LED torch inside the beak. Eventually there will be a more diffuse light source, and not so blue in colour.

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