The one part of an eagle that has to be right is the command module (or beak as it is sometimes called). You can get away with inaccuracies in other parts of the eagle and people may not notice, but if the beak is wrong it will be very obvious.

The command module comes in two halves, which are made oversized (molded passed the centerline) which have to be trimmed. In picture 1 you can see one half, note the parts from the airfix Saturn five kit, which are used on other parts of the eagle.
I trimmed the two halves using razor saws. The fiberglass blunted the saws quickly so I needed three of them just to complete the job. Using a medium grade wet and dry paper on a flat surface I sanded the cut edges smooth and flat, so the halves fit together perfectly. They were then stuck together using two-part epoxy glue. When the glue set I cut the back off the command module very carefully along the line of the panels (picture 2).
The cuts were then sanded smooth and the joints reinforced with fiberglass tissue and resin (picture 3 and picture 4).
A plywood ring was cut and fixed to the front part with epoxy glue (picture 5). I actually made this much wider than it needed to be.
The brackets that hold the command module to the framework were made from sheet aluminium. First strips were cut a bit wider than needed, then they were bent into a U shape, and finally they were cut to the correct shape. They were then glued and bolted in place (picture 6).
The brass frame was now permanently fixed to the command module with threaded rod and bolts, with aluminium spacers (picture 7).
I chose some plastic sheet that was the same thickness as the saw blades I used, and stuck this to the back piece with super glue gel. I then cut some thick pieces of plastic card to fit the inside of the plywood ring. These were fixed to the rear of the command module and two large holes were cut out in line with the rear fixing screws (picture 8).
As you can see from pictures 7 and 9, with the correct thickness of plastic used, the two halves fit together perfectly.
The sensor dishes that were moulded in the fibreglass were drilled out and replaced with aluminium ones. These were provided by Chris Trice. They came smooth (picture 10), so I needed to scribe the lines on them using a centre punch and straight edge (picture 11). These were fixed in place with plenty of epoxy glue.
The windows were cut out and the whole thing primed with white cellulose car primer (pictures 12 and 13).
I cut two strips of plywood and some short lengths of a broom handle and fixed them in position (picture 14). The screws that hold the two halves together screw into the bits of broom handle.
After a period of about a year with no work in it, I rubbed the whole thing down with some very fine wet and dry. Then after masking the sensor dishes, I sprayed it with grey acrylic car primer. A light coat of white primer was applied. When dry, I masked off the areas I wanted to stay this colour. Then another light coat of white was applied and further masking off was done. This would give lighter panels. Finally another heaver coat of white was applied. When dry, the masking tape was removed. Next, with the necessary masking, the window areas were sprayed satin black. The decals were applied and letraset was used to give some interesting detail (picture 15). The sensor dishes were then masked again (I shouldn’t have taken it off in the first place) and acrylic satin varnish was used to seal everything (picture 16). This is the method of painting I used for all of the eagle parts.
The windows are cut from thin Perspex and fixed in position with small dabs of epoxy (picture 17).
The inside of the command module that you could see through the windows was painted matt black. I then printed out a backing from a file I got from Chris Trice (picture 18). This was then stuck to some thin plastic card and held in place with velcro strips (pictures 19, 20). Without internal lighting you really can't see much of the backing (picture 21), so this is something I intend to do.

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